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    Based on ESP32 reflow furnace DIY, large PCB design is never a problem

     

    This project is about converting a new oven into a reflow oven, although the cost is large, but it is also very worthwhile. After all, this is what I need for my project. A few years ago, I changed a oven to a reflow furnace, and it still runs well, so I hope this project is more professional than an old project. When I completed this project, I didn't have time to test all parts, I found that my speaker could not work properly. I also can't find the original schematic, I can't replace the part of the speaker, and I can't work in any way, so I decided to carry out new revisions. This version is exactly the same as the first edition I, except for the buzzer instead of the speaker and the unwanted diode. Here is a small test for it: Back to the oven to the reconstruction process of reflow oven First ask a question it is worth it? Absolutely worth it! The main reason for this reconstruction is that I need a bigger space, because I need a PCB for 23x23 cm (for my other items), but I can return more small PCB, so I guess it will use it often . Due to the limited functionality of FW, it has completed the task a few hours a few hours before Christmas holiday, so I can bake 2 wooden boards. A small new pixel ring with 32 RGB diodes is only used to test whether the return curve is normal, and a large board (length 23 x 23 cm) and contains 144 WS2812B diodes. They both work normally, except for a bad diode on the big board, their backflow is very beautiful. From the price, this is worth it. It is really cheap if it is compared to the similar oven used in work. I didn't calculate the price of all parts, but I think the price of the conversion will be around $ 100, and I can change anything I want (hardware and software). This is a photo of the oven. This is a still alive board: I will do more work in firmware so that you can use more configuration files. Now, a profile will now be rearranged, and any functionality that is missing menu and those "Advanced" feature will be lacking. I collected all parts, assembled PCB, and did purchase a new connector for heater components, so I could start final assembly. Because the oven should be movable and independent, I designed a power connector on the PCB, so I need to convert the main power to the 5V power supply required for the controller. After considering what I can use and how to connect it to the main body, I decided to sacrifice a USB charger for my mobile phone. I cut it into two halves and sold 2 lines (main power and 5V) at each side. I use the M3X5 screw to connect the PCB to the printed front panel and connect the PCB to the SSR with the M5x10 screw. The USB charger is connected to the power supply, the SSR is connected to the power supply of the PCB and the side of the SSR and the main power source connection on the other side of the SSR. When the SSR is in the ON state, these power supplies power to the heating element. The front panel is screwed to the body with a 6-stranded tape to connect the USB charger to the body with a double-sided tape and drill on the heating chamber wall of the thermocouple. This is the final picture: After testing everything, I installed the main cover. Be Copyright Notice: Circuit City Original compilation, translation from HackADAY, please indicate the source!

     

     

     

     

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