If you are an electronic loveman, almost all your projects, welding is essential, but the smoke / smoke produced by combustion solder and flux is not something you want to breathe. It smells very odor, which is very dangerous to your health, but you can reduce harm by using a smoke machine. Even if you are just occasionally welded once, it is also a good idea to use the solder smoke suction to inhale these toxic smoke.
If you want to buy a good range hood from the market, you have to pay more than 70 dollars. Therefore, I use 120 mm PC cooling fan and 3D print housing to make their own products.
I got inspiration in the amazing 3D print model designed by RDMMKR. I have custom models in Autodesk Fusion 360 to meet my own requirements. I used 120 x 25 mm fan, while the original design applies to 80 x 38 mm fans. I also added a speed controller to adjust the fan speed.
Video tutorial:
Be
Supplies
Components used:
1. 12V fan (Amazon)
2. Speed Controller (Amazon)
3. DC Jack (Amazon)
4. Strip switch 15 x 10 mm (Amazon)
5. 5mm LED (Amazon)
6. Resistors - 580OHM (Amazon)
7. 22 AWG Wire (Amazon)
8. Hot shrinkage (Amazon)
9. Thread thermal insertion (Amazon)
10. Activated Carbon Filter (Amazon)
11. Double-sided tape (Amazon)
12. M3 x 12 Screws (Amazon)
13. M5 x 8 Screws (Amazon)
14. Rubber foot (Amazon)
Tools used:
1. Website (Amazon)
2. 3D Printer (Amazon)
3. Line cutting machine (Amazon)
4. Stripper clamp (Amazon)
5. Hot air machine (Amazon)
Step 1: How does it work?
The main components of the smoke unit are based on a 120 x 120 x 25 mm cooling fan. The fan inhales the flue gas in the weld area, through a reactive carbon filter, purifying the odor in the air, effectively absorbs toxic gases, providing safe working conditions.
The picture from the Diyode article is really good to show the work of the oil hood. Thank Diyode design this picture.
Schematic, schematic:
The fan is powered by a 12V DC adapter. The input power is fed into the circuit through a DC jack.
Speed controller is used to adjust the fan speed.
A 5mm LED with a current-current resistor (580 ohms) is used to indicate the power state.
The rocker switch is connected between the DC jack and the speed controller to isolate the power from the entire circuit.
Step 2: Prepare the fan line
I used the Arctic F12 casing fan in this project. The fan with three wires with connector. Wires are designated as GND, 12V and signals. For this project, we only need two power cords, namely 12V and GND.
Use a pliers to cut the connector and discard the signal line.
Strip the insulating layer of the wire to connect them to the speed controller.
Step 3: Prepare LED
Here, I use a 5mm red LED to indicate the availability of the power supply. The forward voltage of the red LED is usually 1.5V to 2V, but we must run it from 12V. This can be achieved by using a current limit string resistance. Use this online calculator to easily calculate the resistance value.
Use the pliers to trim the leg of the LED, the longer leg represents the positive terminal.
Welding one end of the resistor to the positive terminal of the LED.
Welding a red line is connected to the other leg of the resistor, weld the black wire to the negative terminal of the LED.
Use a heat shrink tube to insulate the solder joint.
Step 4: Prepare DC jacks
The DC jack is used to power from the 12V adapter. Here I use 5.5 x 2.1 mm DC jack.
First, a small amount of flux is applied to the two terminals.
Welding a red line to the positive electrode (short leg), and weld the black wire to the negative electrode.
Use a heat shrink tube to insulate the solder joint.
Step 5: Prepare the speed controller
First, I tried to install the speed controller directly to the cover. However, unfortunately, it is not accommodated in that space. So I took the potentiometer from the PCB.
Use the removal pump to remove the solder potentiometer and remove it from the PCB.
The potentiometer is then connected to the PCB through 5 lines. Use a heat shrink tube to insulate the solder joint.
Step 6: Shell design
I have designed a shell in Autodesk Fusion 360. All components are measured by a cursor caliper and then considering the same problem during the design.
The outer casing has 5 parts:
Body
2. Body
3. ink cartridge
4. Cover
5. Fan BBQ
Download STL files from Thingiverse
Step 7: 3D Print Housing
I use the CREALITY CR-10 Mini 3D printer and 1.75 mm blue and yellow PLA filaments print parts. The main reason for choosing these colors is just to match my HAKKO solder. I spent approximately 10 hours of print body, and some parts were printed about 4 hours.
My setting is:
Print speed: 60 mm / sec
High layer: 0.2mm (0.3 is also applicable)
Fill density: 20%
Extruder Temperature: 210 degrees Celsius
Bed temperature: 55 degrees Celsius
Step 8: Prepare detail processing
Before assembled the body, grind all rough edges with sandpaper.
The M3 threaded plug-in is placed as shown above, and the soldering iron is used.
Step 9: Install DC jack
Insert the DC jack into the hole provided on the right side of the body. Then tighten the nut.
Apply a small amount of heat gum to fix it.
Step 10: Install the fan
Insert the fan into the outer casing and connect the other side, and the components should be close together. Make sure the fan direction is correct to inhale air from the front and discharged from the back.
After biting the sides of the outer casing together, pull the wire to the front, as shown above.
Step 12: Prepare the filter
The fan used in the oil hoods will suck the poisonous smoke generated by the soldering iron, but the exhaust gas will be trapped in the room and harmful to health again. This problem can be avoided by making the smoke through the carbon filter.
First, I measured the size of the 3D print cartridge and then cut the carbon filter with a scissors or artifact. Here, 2 pieces will be used to improve filtration.
Finally, add the carbon filter to each side of the ink cartridge and card it together.
Step 12: Install the fan grille
Connect the fan grille to the back, my fan with the grille and (4) M5 * 10mm computer chassis installation screw, so I reuse them.
If you don't have a fastener, you can use strong glue to permanently connect.
Step 13: Wiring and final assembly
Install the speed controller, the LED, and the switch to its respective slots on the cover. Then weld all connections, such as the circuit schematic.
Don't forget to use a heat shrink tube to insulate and protect the wires around the bare wire and the connection.
Connect the positive electrode line of the rocker switch to the DC IN + terminal on the speed controller, connect the negative wire of the DC jack to the DC IN - terminal. Then connect the positive and negative wires of the fan to the Motor Out + and - terminals.
Finally, some of the heat gum is added to the switch, the LED, and the speed controller to secure it in place and mount the lid with two M3 screws.
Schematic_soldering fume extractor v1.0_2021-07-18.pdf
Step 14: Final test
Now, the smoke machine is ready to perform the final test. Plug the 12V DC adapter into the right DC jack and open the rocker switch. You will notice that the LED will illuminate and then set the fan speed to the maximum by rotating potentiometer.
The soldering iron with a solder is placed on the soldering iron, you will find that the smoke is sucked into the smoke controller. I placed the extractor at about 10-15 cm from the soldering iron and found that it works very well.
The fan is disadvantage (74 CFM / 126 m3 / h @ 1,350 rpm.) Has a lower CFM, which means that you need to make it closer to objects you want to weld. If you want to increase this distance, you can use a high gas stream (CFM) fan.
The above is the full share of this project, welcome to send a message.
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