Step 1: Start the operation.
This is what you need to get:
4-SPST 5VDC reed relay (Radioshack Model: 275-232 catalog number: 275-232)
1-SPDT 5VDC Reed Relay (Radioshack Model: 275-240 Table of Catalog Number: 275-240)
1-9V Battery Clip Packaging (Radioshack Model: 270-324 Directory Number: 270-324)
1-9V battery
1-Output switch or slide switch (SPST)
1-7805 Regulator (Radioshack Model: 7805 Directory No .: 276-1770)
1-PC board (Radioshack Model: 276-150 Directory Number: 276-150)
1-reversible DC motor
(You can find reversible DC motor in damaged Walkman or Discman. In New York City, you can get a motor and / or damaged Walkman in Argo Electronics-Canal Street 393)
Step 2: About the truth of the H bridge.
The H bridge is a range of four controllable switches, two of which are two switches.
A set of switches allow current to flow in one way during closing. Another set of switches allow current to flow in opposite directions.
Another important feature of the H-bridge is that it typically uses a smaller voltage (e.g., 5VDC from the microcontroller) to control a larger voltage. (For 12VDC power supply for the motor). These two separate voltage sources remain isolated from each other.
The H bridge can be made of 4 relays or 4 transistors.
The best H bridge type is made of transistors because they can easily use the speed of the motor (modulate a larger motor voltage by using a smaller voltage). Hbridge made of relays (like the H-bridge we manufacture) cannot be easily used to change the speed of the motor (unless, of course, the motor voltage is provided by the adjustable power supply ... ie H-bridge itself cannot adjust the power supply. To reduce the speed of the motor, the power must be reduced to reduce the speed of the motor, and then pass the H bridge).
Step 3: Working principle.
The H-bridge we are making use relays.
This means that the motor will rotate as quickly as possible in one direction, and then rotate as quickly as possible in the other direction during reverse. The only thing that slows down the motor rotation is that if you have a controller to modulate the 9VDC power signal, then it enters the H bridge.
When the coil is pulled on "relay 1" and "relay 4" (current flow through them), then the motor will rotate forward (see "Figure 1").
When the coil on the "relay 2" and "relay 3" is pulled (current flow), the motor will rotate backward (see "Figure 2").
When the coil on the "relay 1" and "relay 2" is high (current flow through them), the motor will stop rotating (see "Figure 3").
When the coil on the "relay 3" and "relay 4" is pulled (current flow through them), the motor will stop rotating (see "Figure 4").
********warn***********
You have to avoid:
Pull the "relay 1" and "relay 3". This is a short circuit because there is no load to pass. Bad people happen! (See "Image 5")
"Relay 2" and "relay 4" are pulled high. This is a short circuit because there is no load to pass. Bad people happen! (Please imagine "Image 6")
Tightened more than two relays at a time. A bad thing will occur.
Step 4: About our circuit.
Our circuits include a four-composed H-bridge SPST relay (single knife single throw) and 1 additional SPDT relay will be used to switch between 2 seconds relays.
OK. . .. this is its working principle. .
The power from the battery will flow to the 7805 regulator, here to convert it to 5V. The battery's power supply also flows to the "relay 1" and "relay 2" of the motor (but we surpass yourself).
The 5V power supply flows to the coil of the SPDT relay and also passes through the SPDT relay. Therefore, when the switch is closed, 5V flows through the SPDT relay coil, and 5V has also passed the SPDT relay route to the "relay 1" and "relay 4" coil forces them to close. This allows 9V to flow through the "relay 1" and "relay 4" in a manner that the motor can be rotated in the clockwise direction.
In other words, when we turn off the switch connected to the SPDT relay, we will trigger the H bridge to allow the motor to rotate clockwise.
Therefore, if we want the motor to reverse - when rotating clockwise, we have to do it to the opposite direction. This will change the current through the path of the SPDT relay and close "relay 2" and "relay 3" (and extended to open "relay 1" and "relay 4").
Step 5: Start welding!
Welding 4 SPST relays are placed together as close as possible to the PCB (see the figure below).
If you don't know how to weld, learn how to weld how to use NOAH.
Next, welding SPDT relays (box-shaped things) are as close as possible to the SPST relay (see the deputy map).
Finally, in the register of the left or right side of the board, the 7805 5V regulator (see a secondary image) is welded.
You should now connect all major components to the board (see the main image).
Step 6: Welding some wires.
You now want to connect the wire to your component so that they can actually connect together and can perform operations.
First, the black wire is welded to the side of the coil of each SPST relay. Select a point at least 8 empty slots on the PCB and they are not connected to any component, and then all 4 wires are welded to the bottom surface of the board.
Step 7: Welding more wires.
Then you need to connect the two lines to the location of the SPDT relay. Consider each line in the two lines belong to the same set of lines. Connect a set of wires to the two nearest relay coils. Connect another set of wires to the two farthest relays (see image comments) for clearness.
Step 8: Welding more wires.
Connect the intermediate pin of the first relay to 9V input on the regulator. Ground the middle pin of the second relay (where all black wires are connected together). Connect the intermediate pin of the third relay to the 9V input of the regulator. Ground the middle pin of the fourth relay (where all black wires are connected together).
For the sake of clarity, please refer to the image below.
Step 9: Who will there so many wires?
Connect the other end of one of the wires to the input pin of the SPDT relay. Connect another wire to the coil on the SPDT relay.
Then the problem of the switch. One line on the switch is connected to the coil on the SPDT relay, and the other wire on the switch is grounded.
It will now be a good time to connect the black line between the grounding point and the intermediate pin of the voltage regulator.
Step 10: Insert the plug into the sexy beast!
Will you want to open the H bridge, right? Moreover, no matter how many sexy do you think you have, the only way to turn on the power is to use.
Therefore, connect the red wire of the 9V plug to the 9V input of the regulator. The black wire is then attached to all other ground wires on the board.
Step 11: Several wires.
A 5-inch wire is attached to the pin of the SPST relay tube side of the current unconnected wire.
If there is a + 9V red wire on the middle pin on the tube, there is a wave of the electric wire, and then a red wire is also connected on that side of the current to be connected. If there is a black wire on the side of all wires, then a black wire is then connected here.
Step 12: Clean up.
Cut all over the board below the board.
Step 13: Test. ..test. .. 1 . .. 2 . .. 3. .
It's time to see if it works.
It is a set of red and black wires that are closest to the side of the board. The farther red and black wires will be regarded as another group. In the figure below, I will hang together each group.
When the SPDT relay triggers the H bridge, there will be power flows at any given time, one or another group.
Therefore, if we want to connect a 220 ohmic resistor on each group of LEDs, when we insert the battery and tap the switch, a LED will illuminate, and another LED will illuminate (see the figure below)).
troubleshooting
If your H-bridge does not work in this way, make sure:
1. You are using the right "group" wire
2. All your wires are properly wired (see the figure below)
3. You have made all appropriate welding connections and no wires are missing
4. You don't have a crossed wire (if this, the regulator is likely to become very hot. Usually, you should also be able to see the crossed place ...) 5. The relay can work normally (can be checked by passing the positive bridge of the coil to 5V). Do you hear a bit of clicks)
6. The battery has not been exhausted (quickly touch the LED indicator, see if it is lit)
7. Your LED indicator is not extinguished (please try another LED indicator)
8. Your LED will not move back and prevent current (try to turn it over).
9. The god of electronics will not give you an angry.
Step 14: Connect the motor.
This is a tricky problem.
Since we want current to flow through the electric motor, the motor is forward and rearward, so we must connect a set of wires to the electric motor with the correct polarity, and connect another set of wires to the motor in other words, one group Black with red pairs in another group, then connect to the red wire on the motor. The red pair in a group is connected to the other group and is connected to the black line on the motor.
Or just want to see what happens, just take a closer look at the picture.
Step 15: Improve artbot.
In addition to using it for a large number of practical applications, you can now use the H-bridge to make fancy expression plotting robots moving in both directions.
Editor in charge: WV, read full text
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